Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Takua Pa - Khao Sok NP (50km), Khao Sok - Thap Put (92km), Thap Put - Krabi (115km), Krabi - Ko Lanta (110km)

It was a good idea to stay at Takua Pa and leave the steep climb to the national park until morning. It was hot and hard work but we were rewarded with spectacular views of the mountain ranges and vallys below. At Khao Sok we encountered another 'backpacker strip', an area built solely to capture the tourist dollar. It seems that many people go to this national park on a day trip from the resorts of puket or krabi as a token 'wilderness adventure'. After searching for the cheapest bungalow we could find we relaxed with a coffee with our German bicycle friends (who had also arrived that morning).

That evening we debated what we would do on our rest day. The main drawcard of this place is these 1 day or two day 'jungle trecks' including a longtail boat ride across the dam, lunch at floating bungalows and cave exploration. Kate told Rowan "I refuse to go on one of these trips because they are usually just cheesy tourist traps". However, after investigating the options Rowan decided that it was way easier (and very much cheaper) to see the sights on one of these excursions than to get there, charter a boat and do it ourselves. So off we set on our organised day trip, the benefit of which was that we met a lovely Danish/English couple and chatted away all day. As expected, the trip, although pleasant, was nothing awe inspiring - the bamboo huts were filled with tourists, the 'trek' was actually a walk on an extremely well trodden path and the cave was fun but filled with shreeking thais as they entered the luke warm cave streams. So overall, we thought, a good day. Then on the drive back to the backpacker strip Kate began to feel very sick. As we hadn't been in a car for a month we were convinced it was motion sickness. But after Kate vomited out of the back of the truck (much to the suprise of the tailgaters behind) more than 10 times we knew it was something more. Sure enough, Kate had terrible food poisoning and later that evening Rowan started chucking to. New Years 2010 = zero alcohol and good times.

The next day, despite being ill and unable to ride, we decided to ride (what brains?!). Needless to say it was hard work - we had to stop reguarly to be sick. Things got really bad towards the end and Rowan had to ride the bike by himself for the last 10kms. On the upside, we were encouraged by village people celebrating the new years holiday with many a Chang (beer) and joyfully yelling "hellooo, hellooo, happee new year!". Unable to go on we stayed the night in a small transit town, the only accommodation being one of these hire by the hour places. Great! sick and sleeping in a sex hotel (don't worry it was hospital grade clean).

The next day we were feeling slightly better and had a pleasant ride to Krabi - Ao Nang. The place was bursting with Thai holidaymakers with whole families crammed into the back of a pick up trucks. We found a nice bungalow and crashed out.

To turn around the last few unfortunate days we had the best day ever! We went rock climbing on Railay - a climbing mecca. The karst cliffs jutting from the ocean were truely spectacular. It was a really good group - two Thai instructers, Moh and Tut, two South African guys, Chris and Dustin, an Australian, Nick, and a German, Michael. The only problem was, that with five big strong guys, we started off on some pretty hard climbs. Rowan, as expected, was a natural. Kate on the otherhand was petrified, clinging to the sheer rock face being forced to finish the climb by Tut and Rowan below. I was glad I did it but it was super scary for me! The boys did another difficult climb then we trecked across the island to a cave with ascending bamboo ladders. We came out the otherside of a big carst cliff and absailed down the cliff face for coffee and lunch. That afternoon the boys tried two more pretty darn advanced (and high) climbs. Luckely for Kate she was joined onto a group of girls (Jess, Christine and Brioni) doing some more beginner friendly but still challenging climbs. It was such a fun day and we were all buzzing in the long tail ride back to the mainland. A few of us went out for some Changs and cocktails that night.

The next day Kate spent the morning on the beach at Railay and Rowen went wandering. That afternoon we scrambeled up a series of rope ascents in search of the inland lagoon. Eventually we got to a section where there were a few girls hanging around. Kate looked down and saw why - a r0pe climb down 2 sheer descents to get to the lagoon. Being sensible, Kate decided that without a harness etc she was not going to risk the 15mish descent. Predictibaly, Rowan launched himself at it and was rewarded by a beautiful lagoon surrounded by sheer 70m walls of rock and secret caves. Kate chatted with another sensible girlfriend. We clambered down the steep rocky hill just in time to escape the tropical thunderstorm and then spent a good few hours running around Railay in the rain.

It was great to get back on the bike the next day and it was a great ride to Ko Lanta. We had to catch two barges to get here. However, we took the wrong turning to the second barge and had to squeeze the tandem onto a fisherman's boat to get across to the island. Ko Lant is super chilled. Its been raining all night and our cheap as thatched bungalow is leeking everywhere - but we love it!

Happy New Year everyone!

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